Discovering our Connections and tracing our family Ordeals!
After many years of scatters, the Harlaa family members converged in Toronto, Canada. It is a lifetime get-together. Then, the family ventured into discovering its roots. The trips and experiences started from the flat meadows of Canada, and the foothills of Ethiopia to the landscape of Nyasaland in Southern Africa!
It all began when the 25th Harari Cultural and Sports edition was announced. This triggered our plan to converge in Toronto from the corners of the world. We meticulously planned to attend this event in Toronto, and also extend our expeditions. Tracking the indelible footprints of our great-great-grandparents to our parents. We recounted the threads of our family members and tracked their footsteps in three countries! Canada, Ethiopia and Nyasaland. These are trips intended to unwind the past and connecting to it!
We would like to share some of our experiences, lessons learned, and what connects us as Hararis who are scattered worldwide. Our common denominator is Harar. Sharing our experiences may keep our Harari values if not intact but at least in survival mode wherever we are. It is the least we can do to come together as a community! Driving in survival mode!
Week one, Toronto: We attended the 25th Toronto event and enjoyed every activity displayed. The event itself was beyond our wildest expectations. The 25th edition was generally wonderful! Also, the event itself brought additional joy to us as a family, it has also reset, renewed, and glued the family connections! It has expanded the family network with the new diaspora generation and the Hararis at large. We had seen young Hararis participating in the cultural folk dance, basketball, and soccer teams. The event was a hinge for the survival of Harari values. It was an inheritance showcase!
Then, we started our journey as a family group from Toronto, Canada, and proceeded together to the foothills of Ethiopia and Nyasaland in Southern Africa. We went to Addis, Dire Dawa, Harar, Chelenqo, and towns and villages in between, as well as to Nyasaland. Each destination was a realization of our Harari values, especially for those of us who are born in the diaspora, and a reset for others! The trips have given us hope to hold onto the timeless Harari values! The trips triggered a renaissance of thoughts and actions!
Week Two, Addis Ababa: We spent a few days in Addis and largely talked to our Harari connections. We met Harari elderly in their 70s, 80s, and even in the 90s. The spectacle of Harari stories. Their settlement in Addis reminds us of our parents’ immigration to foreign lands searching for peace and security. They started from ground zero and established mosques, Abadir Islamic Schools, and thriving businesses holding onto their Harari values for almost a century now. We cherished meeting the young and the old but the young sadly had limited connection to their hometown, Harar. We also observed the tiny replica of Harari’s living room in Unity Park. It was disappointing to see the gigantic Harari history and impressive Harari architecture reduced to such a mockup! However, it is our responsibility to hold onto Harari values and reach blissful heights again in our respective countries.
Harlaa: On our road trip from Dire Dawa to Harar, we stopped at the Harlaa archeological site to understand our Harari connections to the history of the Harlaa kingdom. Harlaa is believed to be the precursor to Harar and Muslim kingdoms before aggregated as Ethiopian territories. According to recent archaeological evidence, the Harlaa ruins include stone cemeteries, walls, houses, pits, and mosques, as well as, jewelry, coins, beads, and similar items were among the digs. When we reached the sites, the historical recounts were amazing and they set off our sentiments. Harlaa is the nuclei of the Emirate of Harar and archeological proof for indigenous Harar. We traced our historical origins to Harlaa as a country. It was a center of trade for the Horn of Africa. It was Dubai, Hong Kong, or Singapore of its time.
Week Three, Harar: We reachedEthiopia’s mesmerizing eastern treasure. Our trip to Harar was nostalgic! It was amazing to be in the houses, alleys, and streets of Harar, where our ancestors, the Amirs, the Queens, and the giants of Harar once lived, talked, and walked. Indeed, Harar is a living and open museum of the world. Our experiences were overwhelming!
We experienced Harar’s past and present and imagined its future. We spent days visiting historical attractions! Of the many legendary sites we visited –
- Grand Jamie Mosque: Jamie Mosque is the largest of the 82+ mosques in Harar. It is the biggest Mosque in Harar dating back to the 10th century. We admired the stunning architecture, intricate interior designs, and religious activities taking place. We took a moment to reflect and appreciate the spiritual significance of this sacred place. It testifies why Harar is considered the fourth holy place in the world.
2 Harari Aada Garr or Harari Cultural Museum: This is the mother of all houses in Harar, which is over 800 years old. The interior design is more than just decoration with assorted traditional treasures: handicrafts, basketry, bowls, artifacts, and books. There are also five sitting areas symbolizing the 5 pillars of Islam, and assigned functions for each platform. Stunningly, there are 13 niches on the walls telling different stories, where the front two big niches remind us of the burial site in Islamic tradition, and the inevitable ending of our worldly affairs. Everything in it, and any segment of Aada Garr is a source of knowledge as an education center in every Harari home.
- Sherif Abdullah Sharif’s Private Museum: Located in a 19th-century house, this Museum is a must-visit attraction of history. We explored the museum’s collection of historical items including traditional clothing, weaponry, and musical instruments. It is insights into the region’s civilization. It is a back-to-the-future nostalgic place. Most importantly, it is a capsule of all the museums in Ethiopia. Among 50+ museums in Ethiopia, only 4 museums received par excellence of museum honors in 2023. They are all found in Harar.
- Aaw Abadir Shrine: There are more than 100 shrines in Harar, and Aaw Abdir shrine was established in the 405 lunar calendar. The beginning of the city could be traced to this place of veneration. We saw the burial site of Aaw Abadir and received blessings from the resident Sheiks and guardians. Within the compound, we also saw the burial site of the legendary Harari activist, Brother Abdusamad Idriss, who heroically defended Harar all his life.
- Arthur Rimbaud House: This is the former residence of a controversial French figure. The house has been converted into a small museum that showcases Rimbaud’s life and work, offering a glimpse into his artistic journey and his relationship with the city. Abound evidence shows that he was a poet, spice trader, spy, arm-dealer, and humanitarian!
- Harar Markets and Ferse Megala: There are vibrant locations and Harar’s bustling markets all around. From spices and textiles to handmade crafts and traditional jewelry, the markets offer a kaleidoscope of colors, scents, and sounds. Along the alleys from Gider Magala to Ferse Megala, we passed through Makina Girgir. A narrow street, where we found tailors with pedal-powered sewing machines that make a lot of noise hence the name Makina Girgir. We also tasted the locally produced coffee, which is renowned for its exceptional quality in the coffee houses around Ferse Megala (the horse market!). The site of the Chelenqo Martyr’s memorial.
- Hyena Feeding: We had fun and chilled with the hyenas. It was at first scary, but the nightly hyena feeding ritual is a truly unique and thrilling event in Harar. With the help and safety of guides, we managed to feed these majestic creatures. The locals have developed a remarkable relationship with hyenas, and exemplifying such extraordinary Hararis’ coexistence with the diverse people of Ethiopia. It is a testimony that Harari’s love spillovers from humans to non-humans. In 2003, Harar was designated a World Heritage Site and UNESCO’s laureate city of peace, tolerance, and unity.
- Aw-Hakim Mountain: The mountain of Wisdom and a natural gift of Harar. We took a short trip outside the city walls to the mountain. A viewpoint that offers breathtaking panoramic views of Harar. We captured the stunning scenes of the city, surrounded by the panoramic Harari countryside. This is a perfect spot to relax, snap some photos, and appreciate the beauty of the region. The scenery, the weather, the greenery, and the landscape make it an ideal place for camping and outdoor activities. Filled with precious stones of high economic value, this mystic mountain is packed with historical glory!
- Gates of Harar: We took a journey around the outside of the 3.6 km walled city. The Jugol and the 5 historic Harari gates were built in the 13th century with distinct character and significance. The wall was one of the wonders of its time like the China Wall, the fortified city of Rome, and Greek monuments. We also passed through the Gate of Persecution (dubbed Harar Gate), which was built by Haile Selassie to polarize the history of Harar.
The genuine five gates are Assum Barri (the Gate of Victory), Argob Barri (the Gate of Compassion), Suqati Barri (The Gate of Peace), Badri Barri (the Gate of Wisdom) and the Assume Barri (the Gate of Mercy) are religiously defined structural designs and manifestations. Each gate we visited had its distinct character, architectural style, and historical significance. The craftsmanship and attention to detail exhibited in their design were truly remarkable. The gates provided a tangible connection to the city’s past and served as a reminder of Harar’s cultural heritage, but our visit was also filled with disappointment as they are neglected and unpreserved fully. Each gate needs serious maintenance and repairs from its current dilapidated form, shape, and fading colors! The same thing goes for Awach, and we alert the Harari government to look after these precious structures before the definition of Harar disappears!
Besides visiting such mesmerizing places, we also recollected and reflected on our family history.
Recounting the Ordeals of our family: We began tracing the storylines of our great-great-grandfather. Hararis have been displaced from their home country and have been scattered all over the world for over a century now. You can easily find them in Addis, Dire Dawa, Deder, Jimma, and other small towns within Ethiopia, as well as, in North America, the Middle East, Europe, Australia, and beyond.
Our great-great-grandfather was one of the Harari heroes who fought against Menilik near Chelenqo town. This town is remembered as a battleground between the Emirates of Harar and the invading forces of Menilik in 1887. Menilik massacred over 3000 Hararis and supporters of Harar including hundreds of newly-wed Hararis at the time. Taking advantage of the geopolitics of the time, Menilik with the help of the British, Portuguese, and French annexed Harar to form imperial Ethiopia in the late 1880s. Our great-great-grandfather was one of the martyrs who fell defending Harar! May Allah (SWA) grant him and all the fallen heroes the highest Jannah! We visited the town of Chelenqo and the memorial site on the outskirts of Chelenqo town along the main route to Addis Ababa. Come every year on January 7th, Hararis commemorate Chelenqo Martyr’s Day!
Of course, Harar’s torch and legacy were passed to our great-grandfather who lived in Chelenqo town when he was exiled from Harar because of his involvement in the Khulub movement. Khulub or Kulub was a Harari nationalist movement that began in the 1940s. Hararis’ testimonies verify that following the Battle of Chelenqo in 1887, Emperor Menilik signed an agreement guaranteeing the Harari and the Muslims at large in Harar their religious freedom and limited self-government. However, the cruelty of the Emperor systematically continued including the confiscation of the Grand Berzik mosque which was converted to a Coptic Church as stands to this day at the Heart of Harar. We visited this diminished Islamic religious site and it was also disheartening to see the Muslim graveyards within its compound being gradually vandalized and abused day-in-day-out.
In the decades that followed, the rights of Hararis were gradually eroded. It had gotten even worse with the incoming Emperor Haile Selassie. After returning from exile in the 1940s, Haile Selassie failed to recognize the agreement fully and denied Hararis the right to self-govern themselves. So, in the mid-1940s, the Hararis formed the Khulub movement (or the Harari Nationalist League). The subsequent crackdown on Kulub members landed our great-grandfather in detention in Debre Marqos town. A town in the northern highlands of Ethiopia that could be considered a Guantanamo prison for Ethiopian Muslims at large.
The Harlaa family ordeal did not stop there. A decade later our great-grandfather was released from prison but was not allowed to return to Harar. He temporarily settled with his family in Chelenqo town and finally ended up in Agaro town (South-West Ethiopia) until his death in 1983. We could not visit Agaro town because of security reasons but we met several relatives who lived in Agaro and shared their stories delightfully. It was a reconnection meet for a scattered family for so long!
Chelenqo Town: On our route to Addis Ababa, the story of our grandfather comes to light from Chelenqo town! A town some 70 kilometers from Harar on the main highway to Addis Ababa. We visited the town, the Chelenqo memorial site, and our grandparents’ house. Just like his father, our grandfather was resilient. He was also involved in the Hararis’ struggles for their rights. As a Harari League member, he was involved in backing up the formation of the Harari Regional State in the 1990s. The cultural imprints had reached us directly as kids and young adults. We had seen him in assorted actions – serving Muslims, Hararis, and humanity at large. He along with our grandmother had built Islamic schools in remote areas in Ethiopia, were involved in Da’waa, fundraising and humanitarian activities feeding the destitute, paying school fees for the needy, and defending Harar wherever they went. They instilled in their sons and daughters Harari values – the religion, the language, and the culture.
We never forget our grandfather’s legendary sayings. He said, “It is the awakening in the inner depth of the heart that awakens the realms of appreciation of own strength and values. Both ignorance of own cultural values and the veneer of modern cultural civilization enslave the mind. Do not be your cultural destruction guide.”
All Hararis have one thing in common, they carry both their visible and invisible cultural and traditional heritage with them. Not only does each Harari family recount its historical family threads but also carries Harari values wherever they go! We have witnessed the partial handing over of the Harari heritage to the new generation in the 25th edition of the Harari Cultural and Sports event in Toronto, Canada. We also wish many more such successful events to come worldwide!
Southern Africa, Nyasaland: We took off from Addis to Nyasaland to discover a replica of Harar, South of the Equator. Hararis carry their traditional attires, Harari living room (Gidir Gar) as well as, visible and invisible heritage wherever they go. These is one of them. We found Harar’s replica in Nyasaland. It is a house built in the form of Jugol with the five gates of Harar surrounded by a garden imitating Harar farmlands with assorted fruits (mango, guava, papaw, lemon, orange, strawberry, etc.) including Harar’s coffee. Of all the replicas we have seen in the compound, the Chelenqo Martyr’s Square and the symbolic Berzik Mosque heart-touching and stand out! Believe it or not, it is the only Chelenqo Martyr’s memorial outside of Harar.
Also, the interior of the house is captivating and is fully furnished with basketry, artifacts, and Harari manuscripts. It is Harar Jugol outside of Harar within the continent of Africa. It allowed us to delve into the city’s history remotely. It immersed us into a unique ambiance. It is a model of Hararis’ transfer of their heritage and Islamic tradition wherever they have settled. This house is full of Harari vibes. Simply, Harar’s wonderland!
After three weeks of exploration, each one of us is filled with threads of historic connections and obligations. Our trips were memorable, educative, fun, resetting, and bonding. We will cherish the memories forever. We are inspired to hold onto Harar’s simplicity, humility and peace. Live them and pass them to the generations wherever we are.
Kudos to everyone and we look forward to a repeat!
Written by Harlaa Family and Connections
Narrated by Nesub
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